LONDON – Guests, celebrities and a handful of enthusiastic realists descended on Windsor on Friday for the second royal wedding in the city this year, that of Princess Eugenia and Jack Brooksbank.
And like Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, who managed to keep the designer behind her wedding dress in secret until she reached the steps of the St. George's Chapel in May, Princess Eugenia, 28, kept the spectators guessing until the last minute. However, the youngest daughter of Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson, ninth in the British throne row, had offered several clues about her brand of choice in the months leading up to her big day.
"I do not tell anyone who is doing it, but I can say that he is a British designer," the princess told British Vogue magazine this summer. The dress, she said, "is the only thing I was decisive about, as soon as we announced the wedding, I met the designer and the appearance immediately."
On a stormy autumn morning where guests literally had to grab their hats, the great revelation finally arrived. The princess had chosen Peter Pilotto, a London-based fashion house with two creative directors, Mr. Pilotto and his partner, Christopher de Vos, to create a silk dress with a jacquard design that seemed like the perfect choice for a princess modern
The dress was simple and elegant: white, pure and sculptural, with long sleeves, a portrait neckline that was folded around her shoulders and a specially designed sweep back that showed the scars of the bride from an operation to straighten her spine. In a television interview this week, the princess had hinted that she wanted her wedding dress to show scars while paying tribute to the hospital and doctors who had undergone surgery in 2002 after a diagnosis of scoliosis.
"I am a sponsor of its appeal," the princess said during an interview with "This Morning" at ITV, "since they operated on me when I was 12. You'll see it on Friday, but it's a lovely way to honor the people who took care of me and a way to defend young people who also go through this. "I think you can change the way beauty is, and you can show people your scars, and I think it's really special to defend that."
In a break with tradition, the bride wore no veil. She, however, brought the dazzling Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara, lent to her by her grandmother, Queen Elizabeth II. Created by the French jeweler Boucheron in 1921, the tiara is made of pavé of brilliant-cut diamonds and rose cut in platinum, with six emeralds on each side of the main stone. It was bequeathed by Dame Margaret Greville to Queen Elizabeth in 1942. And in another real touch, Mr. Pilotto and Mr. de Vos created the dress from a jacquard fabric as it presented significant symbols for the bride as motives. A thistle representing Scotland is a tribute to Balmoral, the beloved of the royal couple, the property of the queen in Scotland, while the Irish shamrock assents to the Ferguson family of Princess Eugenia.
The bride also wore Charlotte Olympia shoes, and a pair of earrings of diamonds and emeralds, a gift for the wedding day of Mr. Brooksbank, with whom he left for eight years after meeting him on a skiing holiday in Verbier, Switzerland.
Mr. Pilotto and Mr. de Vos, who met while studying at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium, are best known for their graphic and colorful aesthetics, which was shown at their most recent fashion show in the Week of the Fashion of London. last month. But unlike Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen and Clare Waight Keller of Givenchy, the designers who created the wedding dresses of the Duchess of Cambridge and the Duchess of Sussex, neither Mr. Pilotto nor Mr. de Vos are actually British, making the choice of the Princess Eugenia, whether consciously or not, is an excellent example of the possible complications and consequences of Brexit looming, and what really means "British". The designers are, rather, Austrian-Italian (Mr. Pilotto) and Belgian-Peruvian (Mr. de Vos). Despite being based in London since the launch of its homonymous brand in 2007, Mr. Pilotto also said that with 70 percent of his team born outside of Britain (including himself and Mr. Vos), depending on the negotiated terms as part of the exit from Great Britain. of the European Union "People will have to emigrate again. "
His efforts were appreciated by Mr. Brooksbank, 32, the European manager of Casamigos Tequila, the alcohol brand founded by Hollywood actor George Clooney.
"You look perfect," he said, when his wife joined him at the altar.